BANANAMASHER

Adventure & Music Photographer

White Mountain National Forest: Peakbagging Mount Hale, Zealand, and the Twins

Backpacking
Camping
Hiking
Journal

Three days and two nights of peakbagging summits and camping in the White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire. The 21-mile trek will bring me by waterfalls, scenic views, one AMC hut, and up and over four 4,000+ foot mountains. This brings my count to 34 of the 48 for the NH48 Challenge. Also gained 1.2% tracing the guidebook.


Day 1

Wake up early and head out. Upon getting to my car, I notice I have a slow flat. My buddy’s shop is not far out of the way, and I spent the morning getting the car set to go. Getting to the trailhead midday, I now have to go the opposite way to save my trip.

Hale Brook Trail, which follows along the brook of the same name, starts fairly gently, then more or less goes straight up to Mount Hale, which is exciting because the summit offers no view, just a huge rock-pile cairn. The top is spacious and a lovely spot for a lunch break. I’ll float along the alpine zone line for a bit as I stomp through the Lend-A-Hand Trail before descending to Zealand Hut. I stopped here to eat a bit and take advantage of their water pump and bathrooms. Also took A LOT of time to take in the views and of course, Zealand Falls.

There is a popular Appalachian Trail stealth campsite not too far away. That’s my destination for the night. Only 5 miles today, but at least I greased the wheels and have an easy night to enjoy.

Day 2

Slept in a bit, to 8am and broke camp by 830. Made my way back up to the Zealand Hut to use the bathroom and top off my water supply. I’m excited to get to the ridgeline where I’ll spend half the day walking along the Appalachian Trail. Breakfast break at Zeacliff, offering views of the Lincoln Woods below. Smoke from wildfires in Canada has spread to the Northeast, adding some haze to the views.

Quick stop at Mount Zealand, it’s a wooded summit with not much to see aside from alpine trees. Still eager for the ridgeline and better views, I make my way up to Mount Guyot, which marks the northern boundary of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

Finally, I reach the Twinway. All the views and wind you can handle. The part of the trail from South to North Twin Mountain is a scene from The Lord of the Rings. Majestic and a bit gnarly. While completely exposed on South Twin, the North sibling has huge rocks to hide from the wind gusts. As the last glimpse of light fades, I make it out of the alpine zone and find a spot to pitch the tent.

Day 3

Early rise motivated by the thought of wood-fired pizza and beer. The morning mist is thick and wet, forcing me to shield my camera as I navigate the last bit of alpine-ish terrain down to Little River. Have to get to the North Twin Trailhead off Haystack Road, then backtrack a bit to Fire Warden’s Trail to properly trace.

Fire Warden’s Trail is just that, a quicker access to Mount Hale from the west, mostly used when there was a fire tower atop the summit. The tower stood for 43 years before it was torn down in 1972, leaving the trail mostly abandoned – nor included in the 30th Edition of the Guidebook, but it makes for a convenient loop. The 2.25-mile trail is not only unmaintained, it’s also relentlessly steep with an elevation gain of 1,000 feet each mile.

Spotted a Dark-eyed Junco while crossing the summit of Mount Hale before setting back down the trail I ascended two days prior. Schilling Beer Company is not far away. I got the “Roundhouse” pizza: ground sausage, bacon, jalapeños, cheddar cheese, and garnished with New Hampshire maple syrup. A few of their lagers were enjoyed, including Palmovka 12°, a Czech Pilsner (named after a section of Prague) brewed with all Czech-sourced ingredients and adhering to traditional Czech mash and decoction schedules.